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Taste Trail - North of Wiltshire

DEVIZES - the name comes from the Latin "Ad Devizas" meaning "boundary" probably because the town is on the edge of the vast area now known as Salisbury Plain - much of which is owned by the Ministry of Defence - is the home of Wadworth's beer. You may see Wilt, Royal, Buscot and Tom, the current shire horses, on any weekday morning, pulling their drays at a leisurely pace through the town. There are several pay and display car parks around the town that will allow you to spend time exploring the local shops.

This is the main outlet in the town for Wadworth's beer. Take lots home - it is very good! Fine wines and sherries are also on sale and there is a truly wonderful delicatessen at the back of the shop selling delicious Wiltshire ham on the bone, local cheeses, cakes and chocolates. The staff are extremely helpful.

This is the most wonderful establishment, run by an amazingly vibrant Italian family; perhaps slightly incongruous in the middle of Wiltshire but it produces absolutely superb home-made bread including ciabatta, basil, walnut and sour dough. The coffee is arguably the best anywhere and the menu is mouth wateringly Italian! Do not miss it!

There are two methods of curing bacon here: Wiltshire Curing has no water added, which means it really sizzles, and Dry Curing, where the pork is packed in a salt, molasses and spice mixture for between 28 and 56 days. Try the "Devyses", which has a rich flavour of hops, or the "Golden Rind", which is naturally smoked over Oak and Beech sawdust to recreate the essence of Farmhouse Inglenook smoking.

If you want eggs to go with the ham, take a detour to Hilperton on the A361 near Trowbridge and at Paxcroft Farm you will find probably the best eggs in the region. Tel. 01225 753060 Opening times: Monday - Friday 9 a.m.- 5 p.m., Saturday 9 a.m. - 1p.m.

Bradford on Avon is a must to visit. A bustling market town which still serves the local farming community as it has done for centuries. Nestling in the western corner of Wiltshire, Bradford is only 8 miles from the World Heritage City of Bath. One of the most compelling features about Bradford is its unique position on the edge of the Cotswolds facing the River Avon. The ancient bridge in the centre of the town remains its natural focus and still retains two of its original 13th century arches. The historical view from the main bridge incorporates the hill above the town which is dotted with the old weavers' cottages and the river bank flanked with the 19th century former cloth mills.

This delicatessen is located in the delightful 'Shambles' passageway in the heart of Bradford on Avon. You will find a wide range of excellent local produce including Tracklements pickles and sauces from Sherston, Miniscoff Children's organic meals from Holt and Hill Station Ice Cream from Calne. Don't leave without trying the wonderful Candyhouse range of locally packaged handmade chocolates from Bradford on Avon and the home made sandwiches!

Enter the Dandy Lion pub and restaurant and you will find a friendly welcome within this rich, warm and truly ambient setting - you'll never want to leave! Specialities include'Dandy Kleftico' - a lamb dish, delicious local smoked chicken and moules mariniere. For the more adventurous why not try the 'Cook your own meat on a hot stone at the table' (served in the evenings only).

Lacock is the next village on the tour. Lacock has a magnificent Abbey, which dates back to the 13th century, and is open to the public. It was also the home of William Henry Fox Talbot one of the pioneers of photography, and one of the Abbey's great barns has been turned into the Fox Talbot Museum. The centre of the village is entirely owned by the National Trust; take time to wander around, it is delightful!

Jean Sheard's wonderful bakery is a must. All bread is made on the premises. Speciality breads are produced most days. The "Lacock Lardies" (from Latin LARIDUM meaning bacon fat) are some of the best in Wiltshire - very, very sticky with a delicious toffee topping; these are always produced on Thursdays and sometimes on Saturdays. Bread is also made in unusual shapes - hedgehogs are popular!

This inn, a 15th century wool merchant's house, is the quintessential English inn; log fires, oak panelling and squeaky floors. Breakfast comes with eggs produced at the establishment, locally cured bacon, home-made bread and marmalade. Excellent snacks can be eaten by the fire or the stream, (depending on the season!). Traditional dinners by candlelight are a treat. Herbs, vegetables and, most famously, asparagus, are grown in the garden.

This popular, traditional village store sells a wide range of high quality local produce including Hobbs House bread, local honey, Sandridge Ham bacon and cheese, Downland pork, ham, bacon, faggots and black pudding and local fruit and veg in season. You will also find Cotswold Bakery cakes, Highfield (Devon) preserves and relish and Kitchen Garden (Glos) organic preserves and relishes.

Very good for light lunches, coffee, tea & cakes can be eaten either out of doors or in the lovely restored building. All food is made on the premises.

Corsham, a typical Wiltshire weaving town is most famous for Corsham Court. The Court was built in 1582 and was bought by the Methuen family, who were cloth Merchants, to house their collection of Flemish and Italian paintings that are still on view today.

This very attractive shop sells the best of British cheese; Chewton Mendip Cheddar, goats cheeses from the Yorkshire and Welsh hills, and Bath Blue. It has an absolutely wonderful delicatessen and sells all sorts of things for presents including cheese boards, olive dishes and cafetieres. Fiona Thomson, the owner, is charming; you won't want to leave!

Then motor on to Castle Combe, a very pretty south Cotswolds' village, well worth a visit.

Originally for pilgrims, the Castle Inn serves great coffee and good lunches. You can relax and sit outside and watch the world go by!

Luckington is a small village where the Bristol Avon rises, with some very grand houses, notably Luckington Court, near the church. There have been buildings on the same spot since before 1066. If you wish to visit the church the key can be picked up from the "Parsonage"opposite the lane leading to the church.

The Post Office and Stores is a lovely old building and traditional village store dating back to the 16th century. At a time when so many village shops are closing, this is thriving and sells Wiltshire ham, local cheese, excellent fresh bread and fruit and vegetables, and also local honey.

This is a typical Wiltshire country pub, selling pub food but also other dishes at reasonable prices. Well known for its steaks served with "Tracklements" (See Sherston) Mustards or Horseradish Sauce, and the Wiltshire ham and eggs are very good. They also serve excellent fish and chips and always offer a good range of vegetarian dishes. Children very welcome.

Skidmore's meat and sausages are very good and they are also the main outlet for nearby "Tracklements", one of the most famous food producers in the county, where everything is made by hand in small batches. The owner's grandmother used the word 'tracklements' to describe accompaniments to a meal, and her grandson revived it, with 50 varieties. Try Cider Mustard with Honey with Wiltshire ham, and how about horseradish and cream sauce with the trout.

Malmesbury is a very pretty little town with a very large Abbey at its heart. After the dissolution of the Monasteries the east end sadly fell into ruin and the original nave is now the Abbey with a wonderful Norman entrance. The glorious Abbey House Gardens, overlooked by the Abbey, should not be missed! The Market Cross in the town centre, dating from 1490, is one of the best preserved in Wiltshire.

Leonard Walker's Butchers is 150 years old. Richard Walker, who is passionate about food, is usually behind the counter and likes to talk! He will always give good tips on how to prepare his meat. Hand-made sausages are a speciality; outstanding are his Malmesbury sausages, made from pork, thyme, parsley and marjoram. For a delicious meal, cook these sausages in Tracklements' Onion Marmalade! He sells excellent home cured bacon too.

Take the A4 through Calne, (meaning Centre, because this was the centre for pig markets, pork, bacon and sausages for hundreds of years) and then out on to the Marlborough Downs, passing the Cherhill White Horse. There was probably a horse here in prehistoric times, but the present one was cut in the 18th century by Dr. Christopher Alsop who shouted instructions through a megaphone to his workers on the hill. At the roundabout take the left turn marked Avebury and the car park is about a mile further on, on the left. Avebury Stone Circle, over four and a half thousand years old, is larger, although not as sophisticated as Stonehenge. Entry is free and there are magnificent views if you climb on top of the Henge (bank and ditch).

This very good vegetarian restaurant is near the National Trust Shop. On offer are excellent soups, casseroles, pies such as Mushroom and Ale, and a wide selection of sandwiches such as vegetarian pate and bean sprouts, and organic cheddar and chutney. Certainly not just for vegetarians!

Built in 1562, it is a traditional, comfortable pub, with simple, good fare; roast beef, local gammon and fries, and old-fashioned puddings like bread and butter, spotted dick and pineapple upside down pudding.

Continue on the A4 into Marlborough, another lovely old coaching town, with a very wide High Street, and famous for its Public School, under the arches of which you will pass on the way in to the town. The main car park is well signed off the first roundabout by the church.

Famous for years, this is a very pretty traditional shop and restaurant serving excellent breakfasts, lunches and, arguably, the best teas in the area. Everything is home made apart from the Belgian Chocolates in the shop. If you have small children, buy them the pink or white sugar mice! The cakes, to eat in or take out, are mouth-watering; try marzipan and pistachio truffles! Very imaginative seasonal goodies.

Crossing over the Kennet and Avon Canal, which runs from Bristol to Reading, you will come to the Waterfront Café on the left. This is a simple unpretentious place in an enviable position; sit outside with coffee and watch the boats go by. The "Lockwheeler Special" is a vast English breakfast and other dishes are all well cooked. A good selection of sandwiches is available and it's a great place to stop with children.

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Taste Trail - North Wiltshire

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